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Writer's pictureMichael Zislis

Toyosu Fish Market: Where Tradition Meets Modernity

Updated: Sep 19

Location & How to Get There:

Toyosu Fish Market

• 6 Chome-3-1 Toyosu, Koto City, Tokyo 135-0061

Hours:

• Open to visitors: 5:00 AM - 2:00 PM (Tuesday through Saturday)

• Auctions are typically held early in the morning (5:30 AM - 6:30 AM)

• Check schedules as some sections may be closed to the public.

Nearest Subway Station: Shijo-mae Station (Yurikamome Line)

• Use Exit B for the easiest access to the market.



A New Chapter in Tokyo’s Seafood Legacy


The Toyosu Fish Market, the modern replacement for the historic Tsukiji Market, officially opened in October 2018. Sprawling over three modern buildings, Toyosu is now the beating heart of Tokyo’s seafood trade, with its state-of-the-art facilities. While it doesn’t quite have the chaotic charm of Tsukiji, Toyosu has introduced a more organized and efficient approach, and it is equipped with tighter health and hygiene regulations to match international standards. The move to Toyosu marked the end of an era, but also the beginning of a new chapter for Japan’s most famous fish market.


Note: This Youtube Version plays the same video twice, so you only need to watch the first 22min


The History of Tsukiji and the Move to Toyosu


Tsukiji Market, established in 1935, was known worldwide as the center of Japan’s seafood trade, famous for its lively auctions, labyrinthine layout, and bustling atmosphere. It held a special place in Tokyo’s cultural history and attracted tourists from all corners of the globe. However, as the market aged, the need for better sanitary conditions and more space became apparent, which ultimately led to the decision to relocate.


The new Toyosu Market has been designed with safety and efficiency in mind. Visitors now observe the famous tuna auctions from behind glass walls, and the wholesale areas are meticulously temperature-controlled. Though Toyosu is more polished and less gritty than Tsukiji, the market continues to be a world-class hub for high-quality seafood.



The New Rules and Regulations


With the move to Toyosu came a series of new rules to streamline operations and improve hygiene. One of the biggest changes is that visitors can no longer roam freely among the stalls during the auctions. The new market layout provides designated viewing areas for visitors behind clear glass partitions, keeping the wholesale activity undisturbed. Another major difference is the market’s commitment to cleanliness, ensuring that the seafood is handled with the utmost care in a controlled environment.


While some of the spontaneous energy of Tsukiji has been traded for structure and modernity, Toyosu maintains the deep connections between sellers and buyers that are integral to Japan’s seafood culture.



A VIP Experience: An Exclusive Look Behind the Scenes


My visit to Toyosu Market wasn’t just any ordinary visit—it was an invitation from Mario, an Italian sous chef working at one of Ginza’s most prestigious sushi restaurants. After an incredible meal at his restaurant, Mario invited me to accompany him to Toyosu, where he visits daily—not to buy fish, but to maintain relationships with the vendors. This practice is a key part of his role, ensuring the restaurant’s connection to the best suppliers remains strong.


Navigating Toyosu alongside Mario was a fascinating and rare experience. I learned firsthand about the intricate relationships between sushi restaurants and their suppliers—how chefs like Mario rely on personal connections to guarantee the quality of fish used in high-end sushi shops. It’s not just about buying the best fish; it’s about trust and loyalty. As Mario introduced me to various purveyors, I had the chance to flex my Japanese skills and engage in deep conversations about their craft, from the origins of the fish to the seasonal variations they handle.


This wasn’t just a tour of the market—it was an immersive dive into the culture and precision of Japan’s seafood industry. Watching Mario converse with vendors reminded me of the delicate dance between tradition and innovation that defines Toyosu. I learned about the careful practices sushi shops use, from purchasing only enough for the night’s reservations to ensuring that every part of the fish is utilized—nothing goes to waste.



The Perils of the Market: Navigating the Carts


Walking through Toyosu Market wasn’t without its hazards. The market is teeming with activity, and I had to stay alert to avoid being clipped by the speedy turret trucks (ターレットトラック, tāretto torakku). These small, motorized carts zoom around the market, transporting seafood and goods with impressive efficiency. While they’re fascinating to watch, it’s easy to get caught off guard if you’re not paying attention. The drivers seem to have an almost superhuman sense of direction, weaving through narrow spaces at surprising speeds. And no, they aren't stopping because you're in the way.



Fresh Oysters from Hokkaido for Breakfast? Sign me up!


A True Taste of Japan: My Market Experience


What made this experience so special was not only the exclusivity of being invited to Toyosu by a seasoned chef, but also the personal connections I formed while walking the market. My Japanese manners and language skills allowed me to gain respect from the vendors, who were more than happy to share insights into the various fish on display. From learning about uni (sea urchin) and its subtle differences depending on where it’s harvested, to marveling at the sheer size of a freshly caught tuna, I felt like I was peeling back the layers of Japan’s seafood tradition.


The VIP Experience Awaits


This once-in-a-lifetime opportunity offers a glimpse into the exclusive, behind-the-scenes workings of Toyosu Market—an experience typically reserved for chefs and insiders. For VIP members of JPNGuides, I can offer a guided journey into this incredible world, where you’ll meet the suppliers, experience the early-morning buzz of the market, and learn the intricacies of Japan’s seafood industry. You’ll gain insights few travelers ever have the chance to uncover, with me as your personal guide, ensuring you walk away with memories as rich as the flavors of Japan.



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